Burda 7/2024 #116

Quick project and just a quick note to document it. I have a pile of things that have been culled from the wardrobe that I would like to be able to re-cut and wear. A simple sleeveless shell pattern seems like the way to go for at least some of the old fabric. I have not had much luck trying to piece and/or color block with my out takes.

Surely the old Burda collection would have something? I didn't find a simple shell in my archives, but it was easy to envision lopping off the bottom of this mini dress and having the solution. Sleeveless, a neckline a little larger than a typical jewel neckline, diagonal bust darts. The dress is supposed to have a back zipper, but I was able to pull the top on without it. Yay! 

The fabric for my test garment was from stash. It was a tad rich for my blood when I bought it, so I skimped and only bought a yard. It was just the right amount for this shell. 

Fitting adjustments: forward neck and lowered the dart, done during the pattern tracing phase. I cut huge seam allowance on the sides, so the garment could be basted and let out as much as needed at the hip during construction.  Then modified the pattern for future use.

The neckline and armscye are finished with narrow bias facings from a co-ordinating scrap fabric. I'll draft facings for the future so there will be the option to use them. 

Fits fine. Super fast to sew. Will help me save some favorite fabrics from the scrap heap. The other TNT I need is a sleeveless top with princess seams that would enable me to squeeze the pattern pieces onto narrower scraps. That's on the to-do list!

Burda Caftan 5/2024 #122

For a long time I've wanted something loose and cool to slip on after a hot bath and for some reason never got around to making it - opting to settle for my flannel robe. When there just happened to be the right color thread already on the machine, along with a full bobbin, it seemed like the right time to finally find a pattern and make the thing.

It went together quickly and painlessly, just like a two-dot pattern should. The only tricky part is being precise when stitching in the placket pieces.

There are a couple of features that make this pattern a little different. The two bold placket pieces cross over each other, which gives a little interest. (The original in the magazine has some lovely tone on tone embroidery on the plackets.) The shoulder seams, which are quite extended, are curved rather than straight. I wasn't sure how the curved seams would work out, but they seem to hold the garment on my shoulders securely.

While this is relaxed and loose fitting, it's not oversized.

Alterations - This pattern is drafted pretty much straight up and down. I was not drafted that way so I altered the side seams for an A-line. Added length as the original is just below knee length. Shortened the sleeves to 3/4 length. Did a 3/8" adjustment for a forward neck & shoulders.

there are side vents

The placket pieces are drafted so that if you use the grainline provided, it matches up and continues the grainline of the front. I wanted a change of direction for the stripes of the seersucker I used. My only regret with this project is that I didn't interface the placket pieces. That's not a biggie, though.

I'd very much like to make this again using the placket pieces for the blouse that is made from the same basic pattern. The blouse has some pleating on the plackets, just the kind of detail I really like.

There are some other Burda caftans I'd like to make from older issues that have multiple vertical seams - enough that they'd really add some interest for a plain fabric, as well as fitting opportunities. These wouldn't have to be relegated to at-home wear. I like folkloric type styles and would absolutely wear them around town. Maybe they'll happen some time this summer.