Burda Caftan 5/2024 #122

For a long time I've wanted something loose and cool to slip on after a hot bath and for some reason never got around to making it - opting to settle for my flannel robe. When there just happened to be the right color thread already on the machine, along with a full bobbin, it seemed like the right time to finally find a pattern and make the thing.

It went together quickly and painlessly, just like a two-dot pattern should. The only tricky part is being precise when stitching in the placket pieces.

There are a couple of features that make this pattern a little different. The two bold placket pieces cross over each other, which gives a little interest. (The original in the magazine has some lovely tone on tone embroidery on the plackets.) The shoulder seams, which are quite extended, are curved rather than straight. I wasn't sure how the curved seams would work out, but they seem to hold the garment on my shoulders securely.

While this is relaxed and loose fitting, it's not oversized.

Alterations - This pattern is drafted pretty much straight up and down. I was not drafted that way so I altered the side seams for an A-line. Added length as the original is just below knee length. Shortened the sleeves to 3/4 length. Did a 3/8" adjustment for a forward neck & shoulders.

there are side vents

The placket pieces are drafted so that if you use the grainline provided, it matches up and continues the grainline of the front. I wanted a change of direction for the stripes of the seersucker I used. My only regret with this project is that I didn't interface the placket pieces. That's not a biggie, though.

I'd very much like to make this again using the placket pieces for the blouse that is made from the same basic pattern. The blouse has some pleating on the plackets, just the kind of detail I really like.

There are some other Burda caftans I'd like to make from older issues that have multiple vertical seams - enough that they'd really add some interest for a plain fabric, as well as fitting opportunities. These wouldn't have to be relegated to at-home wear. I like folkloric type styles and would absolutely wear them around town. Maybe they'll happen some time this summer.

Burda Plus shirtdress from 2006

This dress is from the Spring 2006 Burda Special issue, which was a plus-size magazine. I made it once before, way back when it first came out, and remembered liking its easy yet tailored fit. The bodice with vertical darts attaches to a skirt with four sections for a hint of fit and flare. Most of the other dresses I've made lately all have gathered skirts, so this was a nice change.

Only a small style change was needed. I sew a lot from Burda magazines, but almost always end up "dumbing down" their designs to suit my classic tastes. Many of their styles seem extreme to me with details that are just plain crazy. But they have solid drafting and I enjoy getting the magazines, so I stay alert for designs that have good bones. This dress features an absolutely huge collar stand and would probably look lovely on someone with a long graceful neck. I reduced the width of the stand by an inch and it is still oversized, but within my tolerance. I also opted to leave off the collar.

Line drawing to show the style

Tracing a pattern that doesn't have seam allowances makes it easy to alter while you trace. In this case I did shoulder alterations - 3/8" forward shoulder and 1/2" narrow shoulder. Some flat pattern measuring indicated that I would need a much larger size for the skirt than the bodice. That skirt has an A-line shape, but it's a narrow A. To fit the larger skirt to the bodice, I added darts that would line up with the darts on top.

It's not actually floor length. The dress form is a lot shorter than I am.

The fabric is a linen tencel blend that is woven like a lightweight denim. Because of that, and because I just felt like doing some slow sewing with extra nice finishing, I decided to do flat felled seams and have clean finishing throughout.

collar topstitching

Interfacing came from my scrap pile. I've never had much success when I've tried to repurpose old makes that didn't get worn much or that I outgrew, so they go into a pile.  I really prefer sew-in interfacings and have bemoaned how hard it is to find them. Duh! I've got a great big pile of interfacing, every weight imaginable. A compatible piece of linen was just right.

Sleeve and skirt hem finished with a double row of topstitching.
It doesn't show well in the photo but with a bit of washing
and wearing, it should become more pronounced.

Everything was going beautifully until it was time to sew the side seams on the skirt. I did a pin basting and tried it on...and wished that it had more ease. Unfortunately, that was the end of my dream of completely finished seams, because I was going to have to sew them at a mere quarter inch to get an extra 2" of ease all around. (Glad that I had allowed 5/8") After stitching, serging the seam allowances together, pressing to one side  and then edgestitching, I'm confident that they are strong enough to wear well.

This dress will be good for fall and winter wear, with its longer sleeves and long midi length that will hide the tops of my knee high compression socks! Thumbs up.

BurdaPlus 1.2023 #402 Dress

Here is a loose shirtdress from Burda. There are two views of this same basic pattern included in the magazine. One, the dress version, has a collar and stand. The shorter tunic version, has a neck facing turned to the outside. Both have long sleeves with cuffs and placket, and a tab to keep them in place when rolled up. Darted bodice, gathered skirt.

This dress was made because I didn't have enough of the brussels washer fabric to make the pants that were planned. There very nearly wasn't enough to make the dress, either, but I think the elbow length sleeves that I had to compromise on are a better choice for my climate.

The big news with this dress is that I tried a new-to-me alteration and it worked! I had made this pattern up before using just the bodice pieces as a shirt for a wearable muslin. Unfortunately, the shirt rode to the back and needed frequent pulling on the front to keep it sitting where it should. In the past, I've tried to solve that problem with all kinds of variations of forward shoulder adjustments that were never fully successful. 

Doing some research, I came across some old topics on Pattern Review that dealt with the issue. Some of the members said that their solution was to add to the back neckline.My test shirt shoulder seams for this pattern sat in the correct place when I first put the shirt on, or after I gave it a good yank to get it back into position. This made me think that the neck alteration would be a good one to try.

So here's what I did: slash from the curve in the back neckline to the curve of the armscye, and spread at the neckline. I spread 3/8 inch. This change means that the neckline facing/collar stand also need to be adjusted to match.

Yes, it worked! This dress sits nicely on my shoulders and doesn't want to move at all. It's a good day when you learn something so useful!

Other changes - I badly miscalculated on the fabric (for about a third time, ugh) and only had enough left to cut one of the front button bands. However, in the stash I had some rayon denim that, although it was not an exact match, toned in very well with the main fabric. In fact, I think having just that little bit of contrast makes the dress more interesting than it would have been. I made the facing and the button bands out of the contrast fabric. 

If I had realized I was going to be using contrast fabric for the trim when I was doing the breast pockets, I would have made top bands on the pockets out of the contrast. They were already completed, though, and the additional cuteness wasn't enough to make me want to unpick and re-do them.

Burda's instructions actually have you sew the shoulder seams, then sew on the facing (wrong sides together) and then turn the facing to the right side of the garment. Doing it that way would allow the exposed shoulder seam allowance to poke out at the neckline. Instead, I sewed the shoulder seams right sides together (towards the neckline) until the point where the edge of the facing would fall, clipped the seam allowance at that point, and then flipped the seam around to sew the rest of the way wrong sides together. That way, the shoulder seam allowances are enclosed under the facing and the inside looks like this.

I neatened up the serger threads later...

I shortened the sleeves to elbow length and finished them off with a stitched down cuff. Buttons were from a grab bag from Califabrics.

The dress has a cute shirt tail hem.

That's it for this dress. I have a number of dresses now that have gathered skirts on them. They sure are easy to fit, but for now I will try to diversify a bit and find some shift dresses or different types of skirts.

Spring is almost here! Happy spring to everyone.

Style Arc Hope

This is a pattern that has been sewn by many, many people. It's another one of Style Arc's easy to fit and easy to wear dresses. I've made it before, too...in a larger size and worse, a very crisp cotton. I never wore it. That fabric is probably going to become a jacket lining soon.

I'm happy with this version. It's made from a stable tencel poly knit, medium light-weight. Much better for me in a fabric like this with drape.

Changes from the basic pattern: went one size down on the bodice and sleeve. Kept my original size for the skirt - it just means there are slightly more gathers. Lengthened the skirt 1 inch by just adding on to the bottom. Topstitched the seams where the sleeves and skirt attach to the bodice, to give them more support. Instead of a facing, I did a bound neckline and think it looks right with the topstitched seams. Lastly, I made a wider casing for the sleeve elastic and think that looks nicer.

Down at the bottom is a bad photo of me wearing it. You can see how much taller I am than my dress form. I quit trying to adjust her height because she always ends up collapsing back down.

There's not a lot to say because this is such an easy pattern to sew up. Those huge sleeves do make it a fabric hog, but single layer cutting helps with that. 

topstitching and binding

3/4 inch elastic in the sleeves

ta-da!

It's nice to have a dress with longer sleeves and this is my only one. Hope is a very popular pattern and I do like it, but there are others I like more. It's possible I might make it again, but there are no immediate plans.

Style Arc Hope

 Yet another blue Style Arc dress. 😄

Hope has been a very popular pattern for Style Arc. It has a raised waist and gathered skirt similar to their Montana, but with very full and deep raglan sleeves. Probably most people that are interested in the style have already made it. I had trialed it a couple of years ago but ended up not liking the fabric, so this is my first keeper version.

Hope has actual sleeves which makes it a good dress for transitions between warm and cool weather.

Alterations: this is another easy-fitting style that didn't need much. The only alteration I felt was really required was lengthening the bodice 1 inch below the base of the sleeves. I am tall and long-waisted; the extra length preserves the high waisted look when worn  but suits my natural proportions a little better.

There were some other changes that don't come under the alterations heading: 

    1. The keyhole opening on the back neck isn't needed to pull the dress on over my head, so I cut the back on the fold to eliminate it.

    2. During the pre-visualization stage, I really didn't like the way this print would look with a plain round neckline. A little notch at center front was all it took to change it into something I liked better. The only downside to the notch is that it will need to be pressed flat every time the dress is washed, otherwise the corners want to flip out. That's in spite of stay stitching, understitching, and edge stitching. I blame it on the flowy fabric.

    3. You need a generous amout of fabric to make those sleeves, and I was short. I had to shorten the sleeves quite a bit, to the point where they would have been really unflattering once they had been folded up even shorter to form the elastic casing. I made the sleeves appear a little longer by gathering them into a band. The band was edgestitched like the neckline, again because the flowy fabric wasn't going to hold a sharp crease, even with the interfacing.

The fabric was a recent purchase from Fabric Mart. As of today, they still have some of the Ecoliva viscose. I bought two pieces to try and so far I like it. It is similar to a rayon challis but has just a little bit more body and a little heavier drape. It was somewhat wiggly to cut, but not as bad as lightweight rayons. Easy sewing, needed no pressing after laundering except for the neckline notch. It looks best with a hand-sewn invisible hem, IMO.

My photos make it look as if this dress is ankle length but it isn't. I'm getting more and more annoyed with my dressform, with her velcro-like skin that grabs everything and won't let go, her permanent posture problems, and her inability to stay at the correct height. This form never was very useful for fitting, and now it is even losing its usefulness for photos. I guess it is still better than a hanger.

sleeve gathered into 3/4" band

I have one more Style Arc dress in the works (not blue!) and maybe then it will be time to sew something else for a change.

Style Arc Monty

Monty is another of Style Arc's easy-fitting dresses that I am really enjoying right now - both the sewing and the wearing.

All of them have only needed small length adjustments for fitting. (I am 5'8") Monty here I lengthened 1 inch, just adding on to the lower edge. 

Not having to struggle with fitting problems makes sewing so much more enjoyable! Even loose styles like this one need to sit well on the shoulders and so far the Style Arc patterns do that  for me. Forward or sloping shoulder adjustments have not been required, at least with these dolman type styles.

I did make a couple of minor easy changes. Because I was not sure exactly where the horizontal seam would fall across the chest, I made the faux pocket flaps narrower in case they wanted to project themselves forward. Happy to say that they don't. With this very busy fabric I could have left them off completely because they tend to disappear.

All the corners on the hem were mitered instead of just making the right-angled folds. It doesn't take that much time and really gives a nice result. Being fast is not a big motivator for me. These days I'm more interested in trying to decide what techniques will give the most finished results and are suited to the fabric and style.

The sleeve hems are supposed to be turned and stitched. I finished mine with a 3/4" bias facing instead. The facings were attached before sewing up the side seams, then the sides and the facings were joined all in one long seam. Then the facings were understitched and topstitched.

hem facing inside the sleeve

When cutting out, I moved the center back 1/2" away from the fold, so that the center back pleat is an inch deeper than designed. This was for fit insurance. It wasn't strictly necessary, but I like a little extra ease in the back.

I would have followed Style Arc's directions for the collar but couldn't really understand them, so after puzzling over the diagrams for a while I did it in a way that made sense to me.

This fabric is a Tori Richards dead stock. I've gotten others of that brand from both Fabric Mart and Califabrics, and they all have been very nice. It's too bad that they are all tropical-themed, because there's really a limit to how many aloha-shirt type prints I need. This fabric is really richly-textured and right down my alley - the base is like a seersucker, with a woven in stripe AND a print. All cotton.

This dress is extremely cool to wear, thanks to the airy style with side slits and the light cotton fabric. I think the slits are needed in order to walk, but they make me feel exposed and for that reason this will probably be the only dress I make from this pattern. Would absolutely make the shirt version, though, very likely in one of the Tori Richards lawns that are in the stash. 😉

taking advantage of the mirror in the restroom
while waiting on car repair

 

Style Arc Vivienne

This is a pattern for an A-line dress that has seams at center front and back, but no side seams. There is just one pattern piece plus facings and pockets, and it is laid out with the grainline going down the sides. The center front and back ends up at an angle, not on the true bias, giving an opportunity for a little stripe play. 

The V neck is extra easy to construct because of the center front seam. Mine looks like a rounded V because the fabric (a coarsely woven cotton/poly blend) is pretty thick. The V is narrow and sits very close to the neck. I like having that extra coverage over the shoulders and chest. It's higher in the back, too, than most other V necks.

The wide facings are topstitched down and the hem is faced.

I chose my size using the size chart and my full bust measurement and no adjustments. This is not a fitted style but because of the shape it is not boxy, either. Everything hangs from the shoulders and will be nice and cool in the summertime. Because my fabric was really ravelly, I left off the welt pockets.

topstitched facing

This was easy and fast to sew. The only tricky part was the first step, the shoulder seams. I kept attaching the wrong front to the wrong back. All that needs to be done is to fold each piece lengthwise and stitch the shoulders. Get that right and you are off to the races.

Another stripe version of this dress would be too repetitive, but it would be nice in a print or a solid. A solid would look good with either the welt pocket detail as designed, or angled patch pockets. If I make it again (probably will!) I'll raise the base of the armhole to guard against bra-flashing and lengthen a couple of inches. The dress hits me below the knee and I'd rather have it closer to a midi length.

Style Arc has a number of easy fitting dress patterns and I am really enjoying them! Even though there is a difference of two sizes between my top and bottom halves, I've been able to cut one straight size in each style I've tried so far. That streamlines the process and sure makes things easier. There's another one of their dresses on the work table just awaiting hemming and buttons/buttonholes that should be finished soon.

Style Arc Montana x 2

The Montana dress is a popular pattern from Style Arc. The original pattern is similar to this version in blue, with a round neck, extended shoulder that forms a little cap sleeve, and slightly flared skirt gathered onto a high-waisted bodice. No darts on the original pattern.

Two shibori-look print cottons from Miss Matatabi were used for my first version. The pattern intends for you to make a self-lining for the bodice but since I didn't have enough fabric, this one has bias facings on the neck and armholes. 

On Babette it looks like this is a maxi length. That's not accurate; it's more like a midi, although a maxi would be a possibility in the future. The skirt length is the same as the pattern, not altered. Poor Babette is old enough that she keeps returning to her factory settings. I can't make her tall enough or adjust any of her vertical measurements to match me anymore.

I selected my size using my measurements and the sizing charts. This is meant to be a loose style. The 3/4 view shows that there is no shaping to the bodice. Everything hangs straight down.(That is not meant as a negative.)

Easy fit - no shaping

Version 2 was made using the expansion pack for Montana, which includes several different necklines and sleeve variations. This one is in linen, also sourced from Miss Matatabi. For this version, there was enough fabric to do the self lined bodice, which is a great way to finish sleeveless styles. There is no facing to roll out and fuss with, and no topstitching. Nothing against topstitching, but sometimes you want it and sometimes you don't.

The pattern instructions for doing the self-lining will work, but it seemed easier to me to use a burrito method. Sew the neckline (with the collar sandwiched between the layers) right sides together. Understitch, turn, and press. Then, making a burrito, stitch the right sides of one armhole together. Again, understitch, turn, press. Then do the same with the other armhole. Lastly join the sides (bodice to bodice, lining to lining) all in one long seam.

I do like this slit neckline with the little stand up collar. This view, along with most of the others in the expansion pack, has armhole darts that don't really add any shape to the dress, but do eliminate armhole gaping. It was a disappointment that the sleeveless versions are achieved by just leaving off the sleeves. Armholes really need to be drafted differently if there is no sleeve. Look how deep that armhole is. I have to own up to that mistake myself, because I really knew better and should have corrected the armhole before cutting out, but it would have been nicer if Style Arc had done that for me.

Showing the deeeeep armhole

I did make one fitting adjustment on version 2: added 3/4 inch to the length of the bodice. It is still high waisted on me, like it is supposed to be, but a little more in proportion with my long ribcage. That means that it also hits me just a bit longer on the leg, because I still did not change the skirt length.

Both these dresses have been laundered 3 or 4 times already, showing that I am wearing them often! They were not pressed for the photographs - the fabric looks good enough without it. 

After decades of wearing only pants, dresses are suddenly appealing again. Very casual styles like Montana are just the ticket for me and there will likely be more in the future. I wore things like this in the 80s and still enjoy them now.

Ottobre 5.2015 #8 "Solid and Striped"

Don't let that moiré pattern make you dizzy!

This dress began with a micro-striped jersey that just seemed to be meant for a raglan or a style with a somewhat similar sleeve. This top in my Ottobre library was the easy winner. The saddle shoulder avoids the dart from neck to shoulder that raglans generally have. 

Although the top could have just been lengthened and the width at the hip adjusted to fit fairly easily, there was a variation of this basic pattern in the same magazine that was a long cardigan with a shaped center back seam. Ottobre collections are often like this, which makes it easy to mix and match the features of related garments to make exactly what you want. 

Combining the two views made my design changes even easier with the added benefit that my dress has the refinement of a little shaping in the back. It makes the dress just a tad less tent-like than what it would have been without the seam. I also shortened the sleeves so they would be elbow length.

Since the stripe in this fabric was so tiny, I didn't make any effort to match across the center back seam.

showing the basic sleeve shape

Here are some views of the shoulder seams. I thought that years ago these saddle shoulders were also called "magyar", but when I google that term now, I don't see this style at all. 

The fabric has two layers to it, giving it a bit more heft and making it better for this simple dress than thin jersey.

I like this a lot! Soft, cozy, comfortable to wear. It pairs well with the Burda jean jacket I made last month. The two understated and neutral patterns look kind of playful together. 

Love Notions Tidal

This pattern was purchased specifically because of a video posted by Karina Trinidad to her channel Lifting Pins & Needles. I really like interesting back views and loved the chevron effect in the back that she demonstrated. 

Tidal is a fit & flare type of style without side seams. The back pieces wrap around to meet the front forming princess seams. It's an interesting design.

Once I had the pattern I was on the lookout for something stripey to make the back chevrons. This ITY from Fabric Mart was appealing with the scrolling paisley design. Another YouTube style influencer has recently advised in one of her "how not to look old/frumpy" videos to quit wearing paisley, but there are really a limited number of print motifs that I like and paisley is one of them. In fact, there's another paisley dress on the cutting table right now. 😄 Us old hippies will never give it up.

Changes to the pattern: my measurements would have put me in a L, but I sized up because I do not like negative ease and cut an XL, blending to 2X at the hip. Raised the neckline (which is very scooped) 3/4 inch and lowered the bust point 5/8". I also added 6-1/2" to the sleeves so that they would be elbow length.

This poor old dress form is not even doing a good job for display any more. It won't stay at the height that matches mine, so the photos show how it would look on someone about 4 inches shorter. It also has the upper body longer on one side than the other because it can't maintain the settings for the waist length on one side. And the ITY really shows off every pointy angle where its circumference has been adjusted. Maybe I'll get motivated to figure out a routine for taking selfies wearing my stuff.

The back view that inspired this dress

I do like the way this dress looks and feels when wearing it and could see making it again, but not with the chevrons. That would be too recognizable as the same pattern. The maxi/tank version could be very nice.

After decades of never even considering a dress or skirt, I am on a dress making binge. They are what I want to wear now. There are more on the way!