There are two jean jacket styles in the February 2024 Burda magazine. One is this kind of stripped down view, and the other has a collar, flaps on the breast pockets, and sleeves that gather into the cuff. I made the stripped down version, adding the collar. It's great to have a classic pattern like this all fitted and ready to go for whatever fabrication strikes your fancy.
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| line drawing |
It was this issue that convinced me that I wanted to subscribe to Burda again after taking a Burda break for many years, and it was because of this pattern. It wasn't a guarantee that the subscription would start in time to get this particular issue, but lucky for me, it did!
Fabric: this is the first cut to be used from my Miss Matatabi order. Everything in that order is sooo nice, lovely quality, and their shipping was ultra fast. This fabric is a kind of mysterious taupe/celadon/celery color cotton, with woven-in off white dots. The weave was kind of spongey and there was more drape than you want for a jean jacket, so it was underlined with batiste. That provided just a tad more oomph and is so soft next to the skin.
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| back - the seaming doesn't show much in this photo |
Sizing and alterations: traced a 44 for the neck and shoulders, blending to a 46 at the base of the yoke. 46 sleeve. All the torso pieces were lengthened 1", the sleeve shortened by 1", and the bust fullness lowered about 3/4".
Cutting out: it was a real puzzle figuring how to lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric it order for them all to fit and it took hours and hours. Everything was originally traced with 5/8" seam allowances, and I had to go back and reduce them all to 3/8". When that was done, I could just barely get everything cut out except the undercollar. A leftover piece of linen from another project that was really close in color supplied that piece.
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| almost zero waste |
Details: I debated a long time about how visible to make the topstitching and finally decided to keep it low-key. Plain silver buttons kind of recall snaps and look right to me.
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| gentle shaping, not totally boxy |
There is a lot of sewing involved in a jacket like this and a nice feeling of accomplishment when it is all done. I love my little dotty jacket and know that it will get worn often. AND, this fills in one of my Make 9 squares: "make something from the current Burda".
This is really nice! I don't have a current subscription, but I have multiple jeans jacket patterns from previous issues. I need to choose one and put it in the queue. It seems counterintuitive to me, but I can often make patterns work with less fabric when there are more pieces to work with. You've inspired me to search one out.
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