Style Arc Vivienne

This is a pattern for an A-line dress that has seams at center front and back, but no side seams. There is just one pattern piece plus facings and pockets, and it is laid out with the grainline going down the sides. The center front and back ends up at an angle, not on the true bias, giving an opportunity for a little stripe play. 

The V neck is extra easy to construct because of the center front seam. Mine looks like a rounded V because the fabric (a coarsely woven cotton/poly blend) is pretty thick. The V is narrow and sits very close to the neck. I like having that extra coverage over the shoulders and chest. It's higher in the back, too, than most other V necks.

The wide facings are topstitched down and the hem is faced.

I chose my size using the size chart and my full bust measurement and no adjustments. This is not a fitted style but because of the shape it is not boxy, either. Everything hangs from the shoulders and will be nice and cool in the summertime. Because my fabric was really ravelly, I left off the welt pockets.

topstitched facing

This was easy and fast to sew. The only tricky part was the first step, the shoulder seams. I kept attaching the wrong front to the wrong back. All that needs to be done is to fold each piece lengthwise and stitch the shoulders. Get that right and you are off to the races.

Another stripe version of this dress would be too repetitive, but it would be nice in a print or a solid. A solid would look good with either the welt pocket detail as designed, or angled patch pockets. If I make it again (probably will!) I'll raise the base of the armhole to guard against bra-flashing and lengthen a couple of inches. The dress hits me below the knee and I'd rather have it closer to a midi length.

Style Arc has a number of easy fitting dress patterns and I am really enjoying them! Even though there is a difference of two sizes between my top and bottom halves, I've been able to cut one straight size in each style I've tried so far. That streamlines the process and sure makes things easier. There's another one of their dresses on the work table just awaiting hemming and buttons/buttonholes that should be finished soon.

Style Arc Montana x 2

The Montana dress is a popular pattern from Style Arc. The original pattern is similar to this version in blue, with a round neck, extended shoulder that forms a little cap sleeve, and slightly flared skirt gathered onto a high-waisted bodice. No darts on the original pattern.

Two shibori-look print cottons from Miss Matatabi were used for my first version. The pattern intends for you to make a self-lining for the bodice but since I didn't have enough fabric, this one has bias facings on the neck and armholes. 

On Babette it looks like this is a maxi length. That's not accurate; it's more like a midi, although a maxi would be a possibility in the future. The skirt length is the same as the pattern, not altered. Poor Babette is old enough that she keeps returning to her factory settings. I can't make her tall enough or adjust any of her vertical measurements to match me anymore.

I selected my size using my measurements and the sizing charts. This is meant to be a loose style. The 3/4 view shows that there is no shaping to the bodice. Everything hangs straight down.(That is not meant as a negative.)

Easy fit - no shaping

Version 2 was made using the expansion pack for Montana, which includes several different necklines and sleeve variations. This one is in linen, also sourced from Miss Matatabi. For this version, there was enough fabric to do the self lined bodice, which is a great way to finish sleeveless styles. There is no facing to roll out and fuss with, and no topstitching. Nothing against topstitching, but sometimes you want it and sometimes you don't.

The pattern instructions for doing the self-lining will work, but it seemed easier to me to use a burrito method. Sew the neckline (with the collar sandwiched between the layers) right sides together. Understitch, turn, and press. Then, making a burrito, stitch the right sides of one armhole together. Again, understitch, turn, press. Then do the same with the other armhole. Lastly join the sides (bodice to bodice, lining to lining) all in one long seam.

I do like this slit neckline with the little stand up collar. This view, along with most of the others in the expansion pack, has armhole darts that don't really add any shape to the dress, but do eliminate armhole gaping. It was a disappointment that the sleeveless versions are achieved by just leaving off the sleeves. Armholes really need to be drafted differently if there is no sleeve. Look how deep that armhole is. I have to own up to that mistake myself, because I really knew better and should have corrected the armhole before cutting out, but it would have been nicer if Style Arc had done that for me.

Showing the deeeeep armhole

I did make one fitting adjustment on version 2: added 3/4 inch to the length of the bodice. It is still high waisted on me, like it is supposed to be, but a little more in proportion with my long ribcage. That means that it also hits me just a bit longer on the leg, because I still did not change the skirt length.

Both these dresses have been laundered 3 or 4 times already, showing that I am wearing them often! They were not pressed for the photographs - the fabric looks good enough without it. 

After decades of wearing only pants, dresses are suddenly appealing again. Very casual styles like Montana are just the ticket for me and there will likely be more in the future. I wore things like this in the 80s and still enjoy them now.