Back around 10 years ago, Burda published a couple of special issues they called Classics. I don't think they continued with the concept beyond the two magazines. This jacket is a modification of style #0007 in the first issue.
This fabric was listed as a wool flannel, so I was surprised when it came and was more like a Shetland wool. It's coarser and more scratchy than flannel. O, the perils of online ordering, but what are you going to do? What I thought was going to be a relaxed flannel blazer had to become something else.
I did need a warm jacket and have been seeing barn jackets in the shop windows - not so different from the shackets of the last few years. I really like my Logan shacket, but didn't want that volume in this fabric. The perfect pattern didn't exist in the whole of my pattern stash.
This Burda design, though, was pretty easy to modify. I had made it before, and knew that it fit and did not have extremely extended shoulders. It had darts. Most importantly, the sleeves of the previously-made jacket hung nicely. Sleeves with folds in them are my latest pet peeve, but now I know from my Knipmode big shirt and the Logan shacket, that even extended shoulder styles don't have to have them.
Pattern modifications: Borrowed the collar and neck opening from a previously-made Ottobre utility jacket. Lengthened the body and added a center back seam with a little bit of shaping. Drafted facings and lining. Patch pockets were added, too.
The collar is made of velveteen for a no-scratch neckline. It doesn't match any color in the plaid, but does tone in very well. It was used to bind the buttonholes as well. That velveteen is the oldest piece in my fabric stash and it would be nice to finally make it up this winter - I'm thinking of a bomber jacket.
The underlining is a shocking pink cotton/linen blend that was another online ordering surprise. I'm glad to have found a use for it.
The lining is a black bemberg resembling what used to be sold as Ambiance.
Buttons - Califabrics has some bags of buttons that I took a chance on and they turned out to be a good value. I got a bag of mixed colors and a bag of metallics, and there were plenty of usable sets in each, including a good choice for this project in the mixed colors collection.
I put shoulder pads in, too, since the jacket was going to have some structure due to the underlining and the pads would be hidden with the lining.
There was a lot of hand basting involved making this, and careful sewing, but mercifully very little seam ripping. It took most of the month of November to complete and it will be a while before I want another long term project! However, cold weather is here (it's been four days and I've already had enough) and it's good to have a nice warm jacket.
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