Burda Plus basic shirt and buttons that lie

Do you wear a lot of shirts? I do. Knit tops often make me feel lumpy, while wovens just skim over everything. I've been wanting a new TNT pattern for a basic shirt since spring, and have just managed to get the first iteration of it completed before the end of the year.

It's funny how you can flip through years of Burda magazines and not find what you want if you're looking for a basic style. The pattern I finally settled on is from the Fall 2008 issue of Burda Plus. Stripped of its style details, it had the features I was looking for: 

Collar with stand

Bust darts

Yoke with shoulder shaping (not just a back piece whacked in two)

Slight shaping at the side seams

Relaxed, but not oversized, fit

This pattern was easy to adapt and only needed a couple of design changes to become a master pattern. The original had a concealed button placket that I modified to be a cut-on self-interfaced front band. I also replaced the band and flounces on the sleeves with a standard cuff and tower placket. Added a center back pleat. And I traced the front vertical darts but did not sew them for this version.

The smallest size for this pattern is a 46. Normally, for a Burda plus-sizes, I'd use a size 44, sizing down using the method described in this blog entry . But since I wanted an easy fit, size 46 was just fine, blending out to a 48 below the waist.

The fabric is a really nice midweight cotton flannel from Califabrics. I loved that it combined 3 neutrals with a dash of red. There were no issues with the drafting. There was minimal ease in the sleeve cap, eliminating the need for that double row of basting stitches to help with easing. For some reason, I really dislike having to run and pull out those basting stitches! Interfacing was fusible tricot from Emma One Sock which gave the right amount of body to the collar and cuffs. 

Fitting alterations: none besides the blending of sizes. Next time I make this I will try a small forward shoulder adjustment and shorten the sleeve a bit. 

After auditioning several buttons, the ones that looked most at home were these that proclaimed the shirt to be "Authentic Lee". That's not true, but I doubt anyone will be getting close enough to read my buttons.

Another little extra has added more fun to my sewing than anticipated. I finally ordered some sew-in labels because I wanted something to help me tell the back from the front in some garments. The ones I got are printed on wide cotton twill and are not at all scratchy. I didn't realize how much I would enjoy having my own brand on my clothes! They are getting sewn into everything now, even if it is easy to tell the back and front apart.

This will be a much-used pattern and I look forward to making lots of variations on the shirt theme. There are so many distinctive little things you can do to them.  Glad to finally have this in the pattern drawer, ready to go!