Updating a TNT shirt pattern

it will probably never see an iron again

One of my most used patterns has been the shirt that appeared in the 5/2012 issue of Ottobre Woman, style #7 called "Gardener".  I made it back in 2012 and with a few modifications it was my TNT shirt for years. Even though I can still wear the shirts from years gone by, it was time to do a little refinement for my current body so that it can be my TNT again. In my TNT file there is a Knip Mode pattern that's a good basic for a very oversized shirt, and a Burda that is a little oversized. This one is even a little less oversized; call it merely relaxed. A chill fit.

I started from the beginning with a fresh tracing of my size based on the full bust measurement. Then began the customization to include the features I like to have in my shirts. Last, I did a wearable test to be sure that all my slicing and dicing worked.

schematic from the magazine

Here's the starting point.

And here's the preliminary pattern work that needed testing. This work was a lot easier to do on a pattern without seam allowances - one of the reasons I like the magazine patterns.

1. Chopped off the top of the back to create a yoke and rotated the shoulder dart into the yoke seam.
2. Replaced the separate front band a cut on one, adding extra width for cut on interfacing. Handling long skinny pieces of interfacing is a pain, and most of the time I don't want to do it.
3. Lowered the dart
4. Small rounded back adjustment
5. Forward shoulder adjustment, including pivoting the sleeve head for the forward pitch of the shoulders
6. I need extra width at the hips. Part of this was provided by adding to the side seams. The remainder comes from a box pleat added at center back.
7. A minor change - the pocket in the pattern is too dainty for me, so I drafted one a bit larger.
8. Another minor change - shortened the length. I am fairly tall, but Ottobre designs are often long on me.

To prove out all the alterations, I made up my tester without a lot of the details. Just the collar band, no actual collar. No cuffs or sleeve placket. The fabric is a heavy weight linen from deep stash that I'd begun to wonder if I would ever use. 

I'm pretty pleased with the results. The sleeves hang nicely and I don't need any FBA or any more room at the sides. My test is very wearable and lets me know that a bit more forward shoulder adjustment and just a little narrow shoulder alteration would get this pattern all nice and finessed to where I like it. 

A shirt TNT is a great start to the new year. I really enjoy making and wearing them!