Burda 2.2024 #114

There are two jean jacket styles in the February 2024 Burda magazine. One is this kind of stripped down view, and the other has a collar, flaps on the breast pockets, and sleeves that gather into the cuff. I made the stripped down version, adding the collar. It's great to have a classic pattern like this all fitted and ready to go for whatever fabrication strikes your fancy.

line drawing

It was this issue that convinced me that I wanted to subscribe to Burda again after taking a Burda break for many years, and it was because of this pattern. It wasn't a guarantee that the subscription would start in time to get this particular issue, but lucky for me, it did!

Fabric: this is the first cut to be used from my Miss Matatabi order. Everything in that order is sooo nice, lovely quality, and their shipping was ultra fast. This fabric is a kind of mysterious taupe/celadon/celery color cotton, with woven-in off white dots. The weave was kind of spongey and there was more drape than you want for a jean jacket, so it was underlined with batiste. That provided just a tad more oomph and is so soft next to the skin.

back - the seaming doesn't show much in this photo

Sizing and alterations: traced a 44 for the neck and shoulders, blending to a 46 at the base of the yoke. 46 sleeve. All the torso pieces were lengthened 1", the sleeve shortened by 1", and the bust fullness lowered about 3/4".

Cutting out: it was a real puzzle figuring how to lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric it order for them all to fit and it took hours and hours. Everything was originally traced with 5/8" seam allowances, and I had to go back and reduce them all to 3/8". When that was done, I could just barely get everything cut out except the undercollar. A leftover piece of linen from another project that was really close in color supplied that piece.

almost zero waste

Details: I debated a long time about how visible to make the topstitching and finally decided to keep it low-key. Plain silver buttons kind of recall snaps and look right to me.

gentle shaping, not totally boxy

There is a lot of sewing involved in a jacket like this and a nice feeling of accomplishment when it is all done. I love my little dotty jacket and know that it will get worn often.  AND, this fills in one of my Make 9 squares: "make something from the current Burda".

Style Arc Logan Shacket

Why this project? Lighter jacket weather is on its way. This fabric was bought a year ago with a differnt jacket in mind. At first it was meant for the Sewing Workshop Haiku, then later on their Tremont. A window display convinced me that a little less volume would be a good idea. I like back details, like Logan's curved yoke, so it was my pick.

One day those display grids will be stored someplace else

Sizing: straight size 16 based on my full bust measurement.

Fabric: heavy but loosely woven cotton with a lot of texture. Too ravelly for the felled seams intended. I ended up serging and topstitching. It's warmer than I expected and that's a good thing.

to show the texture

Alterations/Modifications: lengthened 1" at the hem. Eliminated the sleeve turn ups by shortening the sleeves 3". The chest pockets are really oversized, so I cut them out without the seam allowance, which reduced the width of each pocket by 3/4". No fancy fitting alterations!

Results: It's a versatile jacket. I really like it and am already wearing it a lot. If I had known how much I wad going to like it, I would have done a Hong Kong finish on the seams.

What's good about the pattern: It's a loose jacket so there didn't need to be a lot of fitting done. It was a little surprising to see how high the sleeve cap was for a style with an extended shoulder, but Style Arc got it right. Those sleeves hang nice and straight with no excess folds or twisting. 

What's bad about the pattern: Not really a pattern fault, but there is a collar stand and that needs to be taken into consideration when choosing the fabric. Mine was thick enough that even though construction of the stand was not a problem, putting a buttonhole in it was. In the end I left the button on the stand but picked out the buttonhole. It would never be worn buttoned all the way up, anyway.

back with deep curved yoke

Denouement: One day I hope to get a photo of myself wearing the jacket to update this blog entry. Meanwhile I wanted to get it written while it was still fresh in my mind. If shackets stay in style, I could see making another one. This would be so nice in a plaid with the yoke on the bias, or with some other treatment that brings more attention to that curved seam.